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Grand Canyon from the River suggestions

Discussion

14 replies
Posted by Monika Chace on March 12, 2014 at 2:50 PM
I happened to meet up with a neighbor as we were passing on the road & he invited me on a river trip through the Grand Canyon. How could I say "no"? It'll be 18 days in May (getting pretty toasty, I would guess). Have any of you photographed from the river? If so, suggestions, what to bring/not bring, places to go, etc are all very welcome. I don't know any details at this point, but I'm guessing there are standard places where boaters camp. Thanks in advance!
Posted by Phillip Noll on March 12, 2014 at 3:00 PM
May won't be too terribly hot. I've been down in both June and August and, not surprisingly, August was the hottest. Even so it still wasn't unbearable.

Do not miss the granaries at Nankoweap. Sunset and sunrise.
Vasey's Paradise is nice but not many people stop there. Also there is poison ivy there.
Redwall Caverns is nice and almost everyone stops there.
Matkatamiba Canyon is a "do not miss" as well. Best in early morning.
Deer Creek Falls is nice. Don;t know if people hike up to the top of the falls anymore but I'm told it is really beautiful up in there.
The confluence with the Little Colorado is beautiful with the turquoise water of the LC. Best get photos now before that area gets ruined with a restaurant, amphitheater, and tramway from the east rim. :mad: :mad:
If you have time, stop below Lava Falls and hike back upstream and watch/photograph boaters going through the rapids. Amazing!
Blacktail and Shinumo canyons are interesting. Shinumo has a waterfall in it that you can climb behind and jump out through and into the plunge pool.
Elves Chasm makes for nice photos too.
So much to see and photograph! Wish I was going! Have fun!
:smile:
Posted by Bill Pelzmann on March 12, 2014 at 5:24 PM
18 days should give you plenty of time to hike a lot of side canyons.

Is this a commercial or private trip? Either way, the places you camp only have a limited flexibility.
There are designated sites, and if they are already occupied, you just move on.
For instance, I've seen Nankoweap totally bypassed because the campsites were already full and the crew had to get to the next location to start dinner.

Phillip has already noted many of the common stops. North Canyon is a great place to camp and hike on your first day. A hike up Havasupai Creek is not to be missed. The Little Colorado is a fun stop, if the water is clear. Nautiloid Canyon and the Unkar Delta archeological site are interesting. Carbon Canyon has a great hike through the Precambrian sedimentary rocks, if your crew is familiar with the route. National Canyon is not to be missed.

Obviously bring plenty of batteries (or a way to charge them) and memory cards.
Figure out how much you shoot in a full day and then leave plenty of margin.
Towards the end of the trip, you could also make a profit on memory card sales. :biggrin:
I've never taken a computer for downloading images - there just isn't time, and of course it adds more power hassels.

Personally, I'd rather spend money on additional batteries rather than buying a solar charger. There are a limited number of hours with direct sunlight while deep in the canyon. If you already have one, take it for additional options/emergency, but don't rely on it to cover your needs. Anyone else with GC solar power experience?

Some kind of waterproof (GoPro, etc.) camera is great to have out while running the rapids.

The sand is brutal. Almost all of the trashed cameras that I have seen have been due to sand rather than water. An appropriately sized Pelican case has served me well for river trips. Just move what you need to your daypack for hikes.
Definitely bring a tripod for morning and evening light.

P.S. - If you can't go, I'll be more than happy to take your place! :wavey:
Posted by Brian Gatlin on March 12, 2014 at 8:56 PM
I've done a few river trips, but not from a photography perspective, so I can't suggest anything beyond the usual and would say you've already gotten excellent suggestions for locations. I think the single most important thing to be prepared for with you gear is what Bill said--the sand. You'll be camping on sand every night. Sand will attach itself to everything you own and every part of your person. It will get into your dry bags, and everywhere else. Keeping your gear sand free will be a nearly impossible challenge. brushes and blowers and pelican cases are great ideas. Also, like Bill suggests, a tripod will be key--the sun leaves the inner canyon early in many locations (and often in the inner canyon in May you'll be glad for that).
Posted by Monika Chace on March 12, 2014 at 9:33 PM
You guys are awesome -- thanks so much! I haven't been down Nankoweap in about 30 years (and that was on a permit-less backpack) and the confluence with the Little Colorado was already full with a British film crew shooting a beer commercial! It'll be a private trip, about a dozen people. I think I'll skip Vasey's Paradise (if it's even an option) as all I have to do is look at poison ivy & I break out, even with Tecnu. Good tips on the sand. I've started looking at Pelican cases (particularly after having my UW housing smashed by United last month), and a tripod was a given. I already have a Goal Zero setup with 2 panels & a battery that can do 2-3 laptop charges (not that I was going to bring a laptop, that's just a statement of capacity) as well as a small one for personal electronics. My battery charger for my camera is so huge that I was thinking of just getting a 3rd battery instead (those batteries last a really long time).

Tell you guys what: if I'm unable to go, I'll hold a lottery for my seat :eek:
Posted by Tim Mulholland on March 13, 2014 at 8:02 PM
Monika -

I'd like to chime in and support everything that everyone else has said - with one exception. There's one additional item that you should take - ME! :)

I went down in May, 2008 on a ten- to twelve-day trip. Environmentally, I remember a lot of sand, particularly in my hair (wind at night and sleeping outdoors). I also remember being both hot and cold; as in, ~40 F at night on the cooler days/nights and wearing about everything that I had, and 80-90F on the warmer days. I'd suggest that you bring a stocking cap and leather work gloves; the stocking cap for night and the cold mornings, and the leather gloves to stay warm as well as to protect your hands while you're climbing/rafting. I'd also suggest some type of "little luxury" - music, a book, snacks, something like that.

Pelican case - pretty much a must, as you can also easily tie it into/onto the raft frame to secure it. Several of us kept our cameras in photo backpacks, and then stuffed the photo backpacks into the Pelican cases while we were on the river.

Libations - no glass allowed, although a three-liter bag of wine served me well and was kept cold by the river; cans of beer work well, too.

Music - Paul Winter's Canyon and Canyon Lullaby. Mesmerizing.

A good resource to buy now is Belknap's Waterproof Grand Canyon River Guide.

I seem to recall about a mile hike up North Canyon (r.m. 20) and it being good; a nice pour over there...

Vasey's Paradise (r.m. 32) is worth the stop and it's right along the river - no hiking. Avoiding the PI is not a big issue. If you want, you don't even have to get out of the raft, although it's better from the firm ground with your tripod.

Nankoweap Granaries - a must! I also hiked up Nankoweap Creek a bit (but, it sounds like you've already been there).

Little Colorado River - Yes! (if it it's blue, not brown)

We spent a night at Trinity Creek/Canyon and it was a good place to hike upstream into the maze of the side canyon... (r.m. 92)

Elves Chasm/Royal Arch Creek - Yes! (r.m. 117)

Deer Creek Falls (r.m. 137) - yes, you can hike to the top and beyond and I hope that your group will make it happen. Once you get to the top of Deer Creek Falls, then it's another mile or two up Deer Creek to a nice secluded location.

Olo Canyon (r.m. 146) - just upstream from Matkatamiba; there's a beautiful pourover/waterfall there and I recall that it was a good place to camp.

Matkatamiba Canyon (r.m. 148) - Yes! (several hours to half a day)

Havasu Creek (r.m. 157) - It's a pleasant hike upstream to some nice pools; it's an all-day hike if you want to go all the way to Havasu Falls.

National Canyon (r.m. 166) - there's camping there, and there's some beautiful geology if you walk a mile or two up the canyon - sort of a gray/black/white slot canyon when you get "to the end."

Pumpkin Spring (r.m. 213) - don't drink the water! :)


Being on top of the Grand Canyon is like seeing these many layers of a beautiful landscape photograph; being IN the Grand Canyon is like floating through a sculpture garden. There are going to be so many opportunities for photographs - more than you can imagine. By the end of the day, you'll be sick of your camera - and rarin' to go the next day! While we've pointed out some of the major sights, there are just so many little, intimate sights that you can't anticipate and that you just have to be ready to "see." Reflections on the water; someone sitting or walking in the water; mud flows; flowers; reflected light on the canyon walls; a simple crack in the wall; the carved, fluted lava (?) at the deepest levels of the canyon... sigh...

You have a wonderful resource now that was just in its infancy when I went - Google Earth...

I'm not familiar with your Goal Zero device. I was on a charter tour, of sorts, and we took a 12-volt car battery (and, it was recharged by our motors, I believe) and a power inverter. Before taking a power source with you, check in with your trip leader and see how they're anticipating to handle this issue, as you're not likely to be the only person with camera battery issues.

Lots of memory cards and/or a card reader (Epson P-7000, Digital Foci Picture Porter 35, etc.). I took approximately 150 photos/day (digital + MF) and if I was going now, it would likely be on the order of >500/day (digital only). I like the idea of bringing extra cards and selling them! :) If you have redundant polarizers, then I'd consider bringing them; someone will break or lose their polarizer. The GoPro camera is a great idea (I wish that they existed six years ago); if not a GoPro, then a simple waterproof camera (Pentax waterproof Optio or a Canon P&S with a housing).

Lastly, take some time each morning and evening to breathe and soak it all in; meditate. Find a quiet spot away from everyone and just soak it all up and make memories for yourself to take home. This will be one of the most amazing three weeks of your life! I can't wait 'til my kids get a few years older and I can take them down the Colorado (and, I hope that my wife can get a few weeks off of work)...

Enjoy,

Tim!
Posted by Don Grall on March 13, 2014 at 8:51 PM
First, congrats on getting an invite to an awesome place!

Just kayaked it last July for my 5th trip down the Canyon. I also have an invite for Oct/Nov of this year. All have been private trips between 14-16 days in length, and July and August have been the preferred months due to the higher average flows during that time. This could be a long post, so hang in there!

On my last trip I took 2 bodies (if you have a waterproof P&S for action shots in the rapids so much the better, I didn't because I don't like the image quality of any current models). One option that I learned about on last July's trip which I would have had along had I known about it was an Outex waterproof case ( http://www.outex.com/ ). This would be far superior to a waterproof P&S! I use only full format sensor bodies, so my most used lenses were the 17-40/4 and the 24-105/4-IS. I also took a 100-400/5.6-IS, a 550EX flash, 25mm extension tubes, an 18" circular diffuser (for close-up flower shots in full sun), sensor cleaning kit (never used it), 3 batteries for my 1DsIII (21mp), 4 batteries for my 5D (13mp), and 90GBs worth of compact flash cards. I also brought a Gitzo tripod and Foba Superball head. I ended up having a little life left in the last 1DsIII battery and about 4GB's of unused cards. I didn't use the 5D. The reason I was very close to using up both batteries and cards was I knew from my previous experience on how much I would be shooting on that particular trip and planned accordingly. For your purposes, I would recommend you add a cushion to your estimates. I don't shoot a lot of people stuff, so if you do, then add more battery and memory storage to the equation. Taking extra batteries and memory cards is a far better solution than being forced to recharge batteries or a portable hard drive. Depending on when you make camp there may be only 2-3 hours of actual sunshine for a solar charger to work properly.

Gear storage: I kept my 5D, batteries, small multi-tool, and some cards in a Pelican 1200 case. I kept the 100-400 lens, some more cards, the flash, ext tubes and cleaning cloth in an old ammo can that has been on all of my trips. The 1DsIII with the 24-105 attached, the 17-40, some more flash cards, and a small backpacking towel was kept in a Watershed Ocoee bag which I kept inside my kayak for easier access. Notice I spread out the cards in various containers; just my paranoia about Murphy's Law always being present in a wilderness environment. Of the three containers, the one I have the most confidence in being waterproof is the Watershed bag http://www.ebags.com/brand/watershed?lastSearchTerm=watershed. They are pricey but worth every penny! Watershed bags can be gotten from their website http://www.drybags.com/ or from kayaking/rafting supply stores such as Confluence Kayaks in Denver, or Boulder Outdoor Center in Boulder, or CKS in Buena Vista. I used a narrow, long waterproof vinyl bag from NRS to protect my tripod, see this
http://www.nrs.com/product/2940/nrs-ricksack-dry-bag .

Being on a private trip means the largest raft you will have will be 18' which is large enough for 2 passengers and one boatman on the oars, or an 18' cataraft that can handle 1 passenger and 1 boatman. Storage of camera gear is made easier if each container has a climbing-capable locking carabiner that allows for easy clipping onto the webbing used to secure all your camping/kitchen/groover gear. I used 2 locking carabiners, each one attached to opposite corners per container so that the container doesn't flop around and injure a passenger or boatman in the middle of a rapid, and it offers more security in case a raft should flip. I recommend the larger tear-drop? shaped carabiners for ease of use. If you use a Pelican case you might want to wrap a short webbing strap around it to act as a second carabiner location.

Photo spots: To add to what Phillip and Bill already mentioned, here's some more. Silver Grotto aka.Shinumo Wash (don't confuse with Shinumo Creek at Bass Camp that Phillip listed, Tapeats Creek/ThunderRiver, Vasey's Paradise will be a must stop not necessarily for photos, but rather for water. Photowise you will not need to venture more than a few feet from the river, in fact I've actually waded into the river with a wide angle in order to get some compositions. I can guarantee that you will be stopping there for water, unless the Colorado is running especially clear that day. Clean, clear sources of water are at a premium down there, especially when the main river is silty or muddy. Re: Deer Creek falls and slot canyon--yes, you can still hike to the top, in fact this is one end of a hike that connects Tapeats Creek and Thunder River. Re: Havasu Creek, you can hike up to Beaver Falls (3miles-one way from the river) at which point if you want to continue to Mooney Falls (6miles one way from river) you have to pay the Havasupai "gatekeeper" (~$25, or is it $45?, sorry can't remember).

Some other thoughts: Highly recommend a folding cot http://www.austinkayak.com/products/4029/Camp-Time-Roll-A-Cot-Folding-Camp-Cot-Regular.html . It keeps the sand off you much better and they are very adaptable to varying terrain.
Instead of a sleeping bag I used a beach towel and wore fleece pants and top on cooler nights. Check the Grand Canyon NP site for temperature lows and highs to see if May will allow for that.

We had a lot of thunderstorms last July which made that trip one of the coolest temp. Grand trips I've been on. The first 3-6 nights can be cool, but then they get progressively warmer. If you do run into some rain showers, it can cool you off quickly and if they are extended showers, you may want a rain shell to put on. That said, May is usually less problematic than July for rain. You might want to think about a shorty wetsuit to wear while on the raft. That water is cold ~47-50 degrees for the first 7-10 days. By day 16 though it is actually a tolerable 60-62 degrees. Many people just wear a swimsuit under their life vest, but if the raft flips, hypothermia quickly becomes a real issue. It's not uncommon to be swimming for a quarter mile after a flip if you become separated from the raft. If you are hanging on to the raft after the flip, it is highly recommended to climb on top of the overturned raft as quickly as possible. If you get too hot while wearing a shorty wetsuit it's an easy solution to just cool off with river water.

That's all for now, if you have any other questions let me know.
I have a few photos on my website in the landscape (summer) and waterfall galleries and will soon have a Grand Canyon gallery by itself as soon as I get my US Copyright certificate in the mail (I've been waiting 6 months now).

Have a great trip!
Posted by Don Grall on March 13, 2014 at 10:05 PM
Oops, I forgot to mention, National Canyon is no longer a great hike. It may still be an ok hike though. It suffered a major blowout July 14, 2012 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSPEaOsfrDA , we camped at National last July, 2013 and never bothered to do the hike.
Posted by Mark Hespenheide on March 13, 2014 at 10:26 PM
Monika,

I rafted the "bottom half" of the park with a commercial guide. (We hiked down to Bright Angel and joined them there). It was a while ago, and was the last major trip that I did with medium-format film. I changed lenses often since I only had primes, but didn't have any problems with sand.

That said, I'd be highly tempted to buy a second body (used) and sell it (used) once you're done. You can "rent" a body this way quite cheaply. That way you could bring one normal zoom and one telephoto zoom and know that you don't have to worry about sand at all...

If you don't have a beater tripod, I'd do something similar and pick up something like a Bogen 3001 via your local Craigslist or similar classifieds.
Posted by Bill Pelzmann on March 13, 2014 at 10:37 PM
That's an incredible video, Don! National was such a delightful little canyon. Some great acoustics for guitar/banjo. I wonder how long it will take to "cleanup"?
Posted by Tim Mulholland on March 14, 2014 at 9:17 AM
Monika, et al - from my newspaper this morning:

Google offers images of rare river trip

FLAGSTAFF, Ariz. — Google has taken its all-seeing eyes on a trip that few experience: the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon.

The search giant partnered with the advocacy group American Rivers to showcase views of nearly 300 miles of whitewater rapids, towering red canyon walls and rich geo­logic history.

The 360-degree views that went live Thursday in Google’s Street View map option once were reserved largely for rafters who were lucky enough to board a private trip through the remote canyon, or those willing to pay big bucks to navigate its whitewater rapids.

Google project lead Karin Tuxen-Bettman hopes the images educate the public about the U.S. waterway that American Rivers listed as the most endangered in 2013 due to drought and overuse.
Posted by Tim Mulholland on March 14, 2014 at 9:18 AM
I hit enter too quickly...

https://www.google.com/maps/views/streetview/colorado-river?gl=us
Posted by Bill Pelzmann on March 14, 2014 at 1:21 PM
Thanks for posting the link, Tim. Those are some cool 360 degree views!

However, you would think that Google especially would get their map locations a bit more accurate !!!
Posting Vasey's Paradise DOWNSTREAM from Redwall Cavern got my attention.
The Nankoweap granaries are posted too far downstream and on the wrong side of the river.
North Canyon is posted in the wrong canyon, wrong side of the river and downstream of 21 Mile Rapid.
I didn't bother to check any of the others, but you get the idea.
Obviously nobody bothered to get GPS coordinates while taking these pictures !!!!

Stick with the Belknap river guide if you want to know where to stop on the river.
Posted by Monika Chace on March 16, 2014 at 11:55 AM
Thanks again, guys, especially for such specific information as Tim & Don gave me. I have the Belknap guide ordered (maps are like porn for me.....) I hadn't thought of bringing my shortie wetsuit, but now I will. And I know which tripod I'll bring. I can rent the Nikon 1 AW1 for shots while on the river. I've heard it's $40 to go all the way to Mooney Falls. Air temps look like 63-90 degrees. And I've also heard that LightChasePhotography will be doing an 11 day trip next August.
Posted by Bill Pelzmann on March 16, 2014 at 6:31 PM
Regarding Havasupai, most people just enjoy exploring and swimming in the lower canyon. Very few attempt the hike to Mooney Falls from the river. There is a general consensus that the time is better spent visiting other locations that are only accessible by river, and leave the falls for a more leisurely trip down from the rim. If you do head up, be sure to know the current trail status. I understand that portions of the trail can be often difficult due to flood debris.