Posted by Jim Zablotny on January 16, 2016 at 8:01 AM
Hi,
I am currently using a very old Colorplus puck for monitor calibration. While it does an OK job for calibration, my print proofs have to be bumped up in brightness even after calibration. The driver files are difficult to find, but compatible with win 10. I would like to upgrade this piece of equipment and am seeking some recommendations for new equipment. Right now, I'm looking at the X-rite i1display Pro Color and the Datacolor Spyder5Pro as within my price range. Do any of you use these two devices and what are your thoughts. The reviews for them are not particularily informative. One website showed some data that the i1display Pro Color sensor seemed to have higher sensitivity and the software, although complex, seemed to be more flexible for setting up the calibration. Thank you for the help..............Jim
Posted by Mark Seaver on January 16, 2016 at 10:25 AM
Jim, I have the Spyder3 and it works very well and quite conveniently for my monitors (desktop, laptop, and once upon a time a projector). Since I don't print at home, I can't speak to printing. I assume the Spyder5 offers the same convenience and possibly some extra features.
Jim, I've used the Spyder products for years on 3 generations of monitors and various PC MS software. Now presently the latest of the Spyder 4 product on an Asus monitor with Win10. Have not printed at home in more then a couple years now, all that gets farmed out or vended through on line seller generated products.
Posted by David Schoen on January 16, 2016 at 12:14 PM
I have a Spyder 3 and do occasional printing. But I am using Win 7. 75% of the time, my prints look fine. I have an Epson 2400 and the printer profiles are readily available.
I'm looking at the X-rite i1display Pro Color and the Datacolor Spyder5Pro as within my price range
Either one of these solutions should do the job, and do it well.
If your prints are substantially darker and/or the color is off, this could be a combination of monitor and paper profile inaccuracies. Paper manufacturers often make changes to their profiles, so it is always a good idea to keep those updated.
Also, keep in mind that a print is reflective, and your monitor is transmissive, so you may see some differences between a print and the screen. I do soft proofing in PhotoShop before I make an actual test print. Normally, I have to make minor changes to the image before printing. I am also using an Epson R2400 printer.
Here's a quick test: Take a piece of your photo paper and hold it up next to your screen. If the screen is substantially brighter than the paper, your prints will be dark. My current calibration settings are...
White Point 6506 K (D65)
Gamma 2.2
Luminance 110 cd/m2
Contrast Ratio 200:1
Black Level is 0.55 cd/m2 (this is set according to the contrast ratio I set in my software)
Using these settings, I get a pretty close match between screen and print. These may be a good starting point for you, but you'll have to determine the settings that work the best for your setup.
I have an NEC monitor and use their SpectraView software and an NEC-branded iOne colorimeter. The puck is very sensitive.
Color management is one of the elephants in the room for photographers. Good tools and patience will help a lot.
I hope some of this is helpful.
--P
Posted by Jim Zablotny on January 16, 2016 at 8:08 PM
Thank you. All of your input gives me some ideas about calibration. Preston, I did the paper test and that explains the darker prints quite well. I'm surprised how well I did with the old Pantone Color Plus! Now It is time to go shopping..............Jim
Discussion
5 repliesI am currently using a very old Colorplus puck for monitor calibration. While it does an OK job for calibration, my print proofs have to be bumped up in brightness even after calibration. The driver files are difficult to find, but compatible with win 10. I would like to upgrade this piece of equipment and am seeking some recommendations for new equipment. Right now, I'm looking at the X-rite i1display Pro Color and the Datacolor Spyder5Pro as within my price range. Do any of you use these two devices and what are your thoughts. The reviews for them are not particularily informative. One website showed some data that the i1display Pro Color sensor seemed to have higher sensitivity and the software, although complex, seemed to be more flexible for setting up the calibration. Thank you for the help..............Jim
Jim, I've used the Spyder products for years on 3 generations of monitors and various PC MS software. Now presently the latest of the Spyder 4 product on an Asus monitor with Win10. Have not printed at home in more then a couple years now, all that gets farmed out or vended through on line seller generated products.
If your prints are substantially darker and/or the color is off, this could be a combination of monitor and paper profile inaccuracies. Paper manufacturers often make changes to their profiles, so it is always a good idea to keep those updated.
Also, keep in mind that a print is reflective, and your monitor is transmissive, so you may see some differences between a print and the screen. I do soft proofing in PhotoShop before I make an actual test print. Normally, I have to make minor changes to the image before printing. I am also using an Epson R2400 printer.
Here's a quick test: Take a piece of your photo paper and hold it up next to your screen. If the screen is substantially brighter than the paper, your prints will be dark. My current calibration settings are...
- White Point 6506 K (D65)
- Gamma 2.2
- Luminance 110 cd/m2
- Contrast Ratio 200:1
- Black Level is 0.55 cd/m2 (this is set according to the contrast ratio I set in my software)
Using these settings, I get a pretty close match between screen and print. These may be a good starting point for you, but you'll have to determine the settings that work the best for your setup.I have an NEC monitor and use their SpectraView software and an NEC-branded iOne colorimeter. The puck is very sensitive.
Color management is one of the elephants in the room for photographers. Good tools and patience will help a lot.
I hope some of this is helpful.
--P