I am planning a trip driving up to Alaska from California in a 4WD drive truck with a slide-in camper. My departure time is flexible, but probably sometime in August.
One NPN friend suggested the highway up from Fairbanks to the North Slope, but said to make it up there no later than mid August to beat the rains.
I will have an older dog with me, so long hikes are not really an option. She is good for a mile or so and that is it. I can leave her in the truck for a couple of hours if it is cool enough (and safe). I just want to see some nice scenery and enjoy the place. I have never been up that way before. I just retired, so I finally have the time to explore. I will not be in any rush.
Any thoughts on itineraries? Places not to miss? Timing?
Should I be concerned about bears, with being in some remote places? They are not an issue in CA, but AK bears are entirely different. Bear spray? Shotgun? Both or neither?
Harley, it's been 50 years since my AK travels. I will say I saw the entire state from top to bottom and to the end of the Aleutians during my two years of travel up there. With that said two BIG issues in summer is mosquitoes and bears. One bite obviously worse then the other. I would surely consult on line about both for needs of protection. I carried 100% deet and a lever action Winchester model 94 .30-30 during my travels. Heck, back then you walked up the passenger loading ramp with your rifle in the case and placed it in the cloths closet on the aircraft, unloaded of course.....
I'm not too sure about road travels between major points as I did ALL of mine in aircraft. I do recall MANY Alcan Hwy travelers having large rubber pads placed on the gas tanks of their vehicles to prevent rock punctures. I have no idea if that is an issue on the main roads, but still and item to entertain going off the beaten path........
I'm sure a real draw for road access travels would be Denali. But keep in mind it is also a LARGE draw of many during the summer time too. And bears are very active during the summer periods. I was in a fish camp back then sleeping when a 3 year old grizzly broke into the building we were staying in. Thankfully we were able to unload on the critter before he got to us. A civilian on our engineering crew had a .30-06 that brought the thing down. The size and length of claws were humongous.....
You will have the trip of a life time no doubt. It is truly the last frontier even in this era......
Harley I am really jealous and wish I was going too. We went up in July of 2007 and again in September of 2008, driving both times. One of the best parts of the first trip was taking the Alaska Marine Highway from Bellingham to Juneau and then on to Scagway. Humpbacks and Orcas are seen occasionally along with a lot of bald eagles, lighthouses, amazing mountains, mist and stone and glaciers. We got a berth on the ferry, but tent city on the top deck looked like more fun. White Pass was very interesting and we went over to the tidal flats in Dyea when we got to Scagway. Saw a few grizzlies on the road in the woods. One we didn't see that raised the hair a bit when we went to the old graveyard. Heard and smelled it. I hope it is alright if I send you our itineraries by email. Wildlife sightings can be anywhere and anytime along the AlCan Highway. I would recommend driving up on either the AlCan or the Cassiar through BC and take the other on the return trip if you don't want to take the ferry. BC has great wildlife in spots, Fraser Canyon bighorns, Stone Mountain stone sheep, Hyder grizzlies, Cassiar black bears, foxes, we saw a lynx, otters, moose, elk. We never got too far from the roads, but did take quite a few gravel roads along the way, Nabesna, Copper River-MacArthy(?), Richardson Highway, etc. Mosquitoes are killer, make sure you use some deet. Denali is definitely a moost, especially during rut in the fall if you stay that long. Fall started the first week of September for us. There were lost of cariboo and some dall sheep in Denali also, although the sheep were hard to see up on the ridges and mountains. We also saw dall sheep just South West of Anchorage on our way down to Seward. Sea birds were great on the glacier tour out of Seward.
Anyway, you get the idea. There is more to do than you can do in a month, even if you just stay near the main routes.
Posted by John Neukirch on June 18, 2017 at 11:24 AM
I drove the Alcan twice about ten years ago, awesome scenery. The scale of everything in northern Canada and AK is impressive. If you are seriously thinking about taking a firearm then carefully review the Canadian regulations as they are very strict. I know ten years ago hand guns were absolutely prohibited. Make sure your paper work is accurate, they are very thorough at the border. Pay attention to the little orange cones or markers marking where there is frost heaves in the road. They seem endless and most are hardly a bump at all so you tend to get cocky and then wham you hit a nasty one going too fast. Enjoy your adventure and be safe!
Harley, one thing consistent with all of our comments here are the mosquitoes and even the bears too. With that said and planning to take Maggie along you might verify all of her items as well. Not sure if you have her presently on Heart Guard of any type at this point, but I'm sure it might be good to check with vet on that point with regard to mosquitoes being such an issue up there.
Another item is all of her documents needed for Canadian access without some kind of quarantine period. All this comes to mind after remembering the Fraser episode where they crossed the Canadian border with Eddie.....
My initial research suggests that pepper spray is a far more effective deterrent for bears than any type of gun. As Preston would say, "research continues".
Posted by Dennis Plank on June 18, 2017 at 4:54 PM
Hi Harley. It's been 15 years or so since I did the Alcan on a motorcycle. It was fine then except one shot section under construction. Oddly, I had no mosquito problems (I think it was July). If you haven't done so already, I'd send messages to Jim Dewitt and Gary Minish for advice on their two widely different stomping grounds.
Harley, as far as Denali, in 2007 my mother, daughter and I took one of the Denali buses through the park. Cars can only go a certain distance into the park. Here is a National Park Service link that explains it and also explains the types of buses available. If you find a place you feel is safe to leave your dog, I would definitely take a bus trip through Denali. There are narrated and non-narrated buses.
You'd need to leave your dog somewhere. She'd probably be fine in your vehicle, but something like this would cost $26 for the day (though the last update of this page is 2015, so I don't know if it's still operating).
I know that people who live there are quite obviously the best sources, but as for destinations and things maybe not to miss you could check the day-trip information on the cruise line sites. This is that information for Holland America, the cruise line we used. Some of these places are not available by land, but maybe you'd want to take a float plane there for a day.
I have never seen anything like Alaska. I am one of those people who can honestly say going there changed something inside me. I hope you have a wonderful time.
Oddly, I had no mosquito problems (I think it was July).
Dennis' comment is interesting considering the time of year. My question to you Dennis is; do you ever have issues with mosquitoes at all?....
The reason I ask is my brother is never bothered by the pesky critters, but they just eat me alive........
Discussion
9 repliesOne NPN friend suggested the highway up from Fairbanks to the North Slope, but said to make it up there no later than mid August to beat the rains.
I will have an older dog with me, so long hikes are not really an option. She is good for a mile or so and that is it. I can leave her in the truck for a couple of hours if it is cool enough (and safe). I just want to see some nice scenery and enjoy the place. I have never been up that way before. I just retired, so I finally have the time to explore. I will not be in any rush.
Any thoughts on itineraries? Places not to miss? Timing?
Should I be concerned about bears, with being in some remote places? They are not an issue in CA, but AK bears are entirely different. Bear spray? Shotgun? Both or neither?
Any ideas or thoughts are appreciated.
I'm not too sure about road travels between major points as I did ALL of mine in aircraft. I do recall MANY Alcan Hwy travelers having large rubber pads placed on the gas tanks of their vehicles to prevent rock punctures. I have no idea if that is an issue on the main roads, but still and item to entertain going off the beaten path........
I'm sure a real draw for road access travels would be Denali. But keep in mind it is also a LARGE draw of many during the summer time too. And bears are very active during the summer periods. I was in a fish camp back then sleeping when a 3 year old grizzly broke into the building we were staying in. Thankfully we were able to unload on the critter before he got to us. A civilian on our engineering crew had a .30-06 that brought the thing down. The size and length of claws were humongous.....
You will have the trip of a life time no doubt. It is truly the last frontier even in this era......
Anyway, you get the idea. There is more to do than you can do in a month, even if you just stay near the main routes.
Another item is all of her documents needed for Canadian access without some kind of quarantine period. All this comes to mind after remembering the Fraser episode where they crossed the Canadian border with Eddie.....
Have fun.
https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/visiting-denali.htm
You'd need to leave your dog somewhere. She'd probably be fine in your vehicle, but something like this would cost $26 for the day (though the last update of this page is 2015, so I don't know if it's still operating).
http://tonglenlakedogs.com/dog-boarding
I know that people who live there are quite obviously the best sources, but as for destinations and things maybe not to miss you could check the day-trip information on the cruise line sites. This is that information for Holland America, the cruise line we used. Some of these places are not available by land, but maybe you'd want to take a float plane there for a day.
https://www.hollandamerica.com/cruise-destinations/alaska-cruises/alaska/ports-excursions/
I have never seen anything like Alaska. I am one of those people who can honestly say going there changed something inside me. I hope you have a wonderful time.
Dennis' comment is interesting considering the time of year. My question to you Dennis is; do you ever have issues with mosquitoes at all?....
The reason I ask is my brother is never bothered by the pesky critters, but they just eat me alive........
I lived in Alaska for 61 years. Drop me an email.
Jim DeWitt
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