So many brands... So little information about them... What distinguishes a Hoya from a B+W from a Heliopan from a Tiffen? Do the multicoated filters really outperform the non-coated filters? Do I want to plunk down almost two hundred bucks for a 52mm Canon drop-in for my 300 f/2.8 and 500 f/4? Does anyone really use them for nature photography other than perhaps landscape? What makes one good or bad? How often do you that use them pull them out of the filter kit and put them on your lens(s)?
I've searched for reviews and found tons of questionable information on filters. Love Hoya. Hate Hoya. Love B+W. Hate B+W but like Nikon. I trust your opinions and experiences because I know none of you are keyboard photographers; you're out there doing it every day, presenting the evidence of your work on this forum.
One issue to consider carefully is color caste. I've found B&W to be very neutral, Hoya very slightly warm, and some of the cheaper ones to have decided green castes to them. I'm also prone to B&W for their brass rings. They don't seem so prone to stick any time you stack filters or use an adapter. I'd prefer not to use adapter rings, but with so many sizes of lenses in my 4x5 kit, it makes more financial sense to use them rather than have a polarizer for every single lens.
On the drop ins, I long ago bought a Kirk drop-in for my 300 and 500, specifically because they are geared so you could turn the knob at top and rotate the filter without removing the drawer (from what I can determine they don't sell them any more). Problem is that after plunking >$200 for the thing, I seldom used it. Polas are regular visitors to my shorter lenses, but not the long stuff.
Love the term "keyboard photographers" in your post! Will shamelessly steal it for my own use.
While you don't say which long lenses you use, I find that I like the drop-in polarizer for both my Nikkor 500 f/4 and 300 f/4. Often these lenses are used to extract subjects at a distance, where haze softens the contrast. Since haze is usually polarized, the filter can definitely improve your pictures. If you have a choice, get multicoated filters. Uncoated or single coated filters increase the likelyhood of ghosting, where highlight reflections from the film or sensor are collimated by the lens optics, reflected again by the filter and then refocussed back to the film (or sensor) 180 degrees from the original highlights. (This applies to front-mounted polarizers, not drop-in.) A polarizer usually costs about 1 1/2 to 2 stops of light so that the lens is often opened up more than usual. A larger aperture will create proportionally stronger ghosts so reflection control becomes important. I have filters from a number of sources including Nikon, Omag, Hoya, Tiffen, Harrison, ad nauseum, and find that these are generally about equal in quality. Just go for the multi-coating!
I use a circular Hoya. It stays in my bag unless I'm photographing active people wearing pale colors in very bright light, or unless I'm shooting the detail work or mid-range landscapes of fall color, when the polarizer helps intensify color and kill the glare off the leaves. I also use it occasionally for certain types of wide-angle landscape images. I'd say it's in use less than 5 percent of the time when I'm shooting, but the few times I want it I REALLY want it.
Go see Bob Singh he's in Florida and makes the best filters available. Singh-Ray filters are, in there on right, some of the best and his new ones only reduce the light by 1 stop insted of two. This is a BIG Deal! BTW. all my filters are Singh-Ray.
I have two polarizers, a Cokin and a B+W. The Cokin is for use in a P-type holder. It's a pain to use and so I don't use it at all. The B+W filter is 77mm and I got an adapter so I can use it on a 72mm lens. It is difficult to remove from the adapter because the polarizer's knurled ring is hard to grip. It's thin and isn't raised above the polarizer turning ring. I had to get a pair of filter wrenches. I have no Idea if other brands have this trouble or not. Ultimately, I think it's probably best to have a polarizer dedicated to each lens.
I use only Singh-Ray filters for cokin "P" filter holders. This allows me to buy one set of filters that fit all of my lenses. I have NO problem using the Cokin "P" specific polarizing filters.
I'm with Jerry with this one. With so many different sized filter threads it's so much easier to use a Cokin P series holder with Singh Ray's filters. I have NO problem also using the polarisers of Singh Ray's and prefer them now anyway.
Posted by Kent Staubus on June 12, 2006 at 12:44 PM
I use a polarizer for about 75% of my outdoor daytime shots. I've owned several brands over the years. Now I'm using a B+W MRC 62mm and a Hoya SMC 77mm. Why do I now use multicoated filters when I used to use uncoated ones? I tend to photo a lot of trains. The headlights on them are powerful and cause big problems when using an uncoated filter. There is ghosting a big spots in the photos caused by reflection. With the quality coated filters this doesn't happen. Same with shooting in bright snow/sun conditions. The coated filters do have an edge. I have not seen any real difference between the B+W MRC and the best Hoya SMC filters, and I use them almost daily. The Singh Ray mentioned above interests me because of the one-stop filter factor, but I guessing they will cost $200+.
I use the Cokin P size filter holder for my black & white colored filters, but not for the polarizers. The trouble is it is slower for me to use, and the lens shade isn't as effective.
I have the Lee filter shade that fits the Cokin "P" holder, it also works for ND Grads!
Not sure why it takes longer for you. I have the "P" rings mounted on my lenses with the Cokin "P" cap. I can pop my S-R "P" polarizer into the "P" holder and pop it on the lens much faster than I can thread on a standard polarizer. Oh, and I only have to purchase 1 $200 polarizer insted of 3 or 4 $80 polarizers.
Discussion
9 repliesI've searched for reviews and found tons of questionable information on filters. Love Hoya. Hate Hoya. Love B+W. Hate B+W but like Nikon. I trust your opinions and experiences because I know none of you are keyboard photographers; you're out there doing it every day, presenting the evidence of your work on this forum.
Thanks for indulging me!
Kelly
On the drop ins, I long ago bought a Kirk drop-in for my 300 and 500, specifically because they are geared so you could turn the knob at top and rotate the filter without removing the drawer (from what I can determine they don't sell them any more). Problem is that after plunking >$200 for the thing, I seldom used it. Polas are regular visitors to my shorter lenses, but not the long stuff.
Love the term "keyboard photographers" in your post! Will shamelessly steal it for my own use.
I use only Singh-Ray filters for cokin "P" filter holders. This allows me to buy one set of filters that fit all of my lenses. I have NO problem using the Cokin "P" specific polarizing filters.
I use the Cokin P size filter holder for my black & white colored filters, but not for the polarizers. The trouble is it is slower for me to use, and the lens shade isn't as effective.
Kent in SD
I have the Lee filter shade that fits the Cokin "P" holder, it also works for ND Grads!
Not sure why it takes longer for you. I have the "P" rings mounted on my lenses with the Cokin "P" cap. I can pop my S-R "P" polarizer into the "P" holder and pop it on the lens much faster than I can thread on a standard polarizer. Oh, and I only have to purchase 1 $200 polarizer insted of 3 or 4 $80 polarizers.