hi iv been shooting birds now with my camera for a few months now mostly on foot trying to get as close as i can . this i am finding very hard as the birds that i see are very scared of people so it has been a bit hit and miss. what i want to know if you people out there shoot from a hide or on foot and any other info you can give me on how to get closer to the birds. i do have a pop up hide i can use but im unsure as where to place it.
Hi Chris
For general garden type birds i would use a hide/shed and have a feeding table with regular food for them to get used to,Strap/clamp a perch over the feeding table for them to land on and have a nice even background-bush or similar
thanks dave iv started to set up a feeding station last week in my garden and have some shots of sparrows starlings and black birds but thats about it i dont have any other type of bird that visits my garden only the ones iv allready got shots of. i have a wild life rescue centre close by to me and thought of asking them if i could set up a feeding station with them i thought with all the food thay feed the rescued animals and it been out in the country side you should get a good mix of birds do you think im on the right track.
Certain types of birds like certain foods,try some mealworms/maggots they normally bring in all kinds of birds and dont forget a fatball and peanut feeder for woodpeckers
I think hides are very over-rated. People like to say they use them because it makes it sound professional, but they're not really necessary for most things. Choose locations where the wildlife is used to people. Alternatively, simply sit still tucked into a tree or lying on the floor for as long as you can, and given there is a good reason for the animal to come down, you'll suceed. A lot of my photography is simple luck (plus quick reactions) as things appear nearby - camera always at the ready. Exceptions to this general rule are things that have been overly persecuted by man such as deer, otters, crow family, birds of prey, black panthers, etc. This is why so many people resort to paying for tamelife photography! In summary save money on the hide, just be patient and learn each animal's fear circle and habits.
I know where there are 2-3 buzzards that hang out at a place i go to.I'm in the same situation as chris, as i cant get close to them .I have got shots of them gliding over the top of me.But i want to get shots of them on a a tree or something.
I see alot of dead rabbits on the road while i'm driving to the location, would you recomend taking one of these to them and setting it up on a tree stump or branch out in the open, then use a hide to sit and wait for one to come along ?.
Anyones help would be greatfull .
Oh and i like the idea of using mealworms/maggots for the small birds .
I tend to agree with David here, most of my images are taken when I've found an active area and then just sat or stood still until the wildlife accepts me. I do occasionally shoot from the car if I'm driving around the cotswold lanes and sometimes I throw a camo net over my gear.
I never use a hide other than for feeder type birds (of which I don't have a hide and only go to Yarner Wood on Dartmoor for feeder birds).
There's nothing better than getting shots of non-feeder type birds for me...that's what probably excites me in all this Avian photography stuff!
I reckon you need to find a patch and get to know it and watch the behaviour of the birds you are after. Though saying that, I don't get much shooting time and generally walk around and carry my kit until I stumble upon something. The best time I have had though is just like has been said in these replies, I sat down next to a tree and waited for an hour or so until I'd become accepted and I couldn't believe how much wildlife was surrounding me. Possibly a mixture of both would be good.
Hi Chris - I use hides provided on nature reserves (big and comfy), but most of my photography comes from just walking and sitting. I enjoy the open air and if the birdies don't want play I can still have a good walk. Sometimes the pickings can be very thin at other times it can be marvelous. I love the spontanteity and excitement of this approach.
I always start off with an objective in mind but am always ready to adapt to what is most favourable - for instance today I went up on the moors to check out the curlews but conditions were not ideal - but in the late morning I found 5 young kestrels practicing hunting who were most confiding - usually I cann't get within 50 yards of kestrels.
The key thing I have learned is to study your local patch - learn the times of year and the good places and the lighting direction. I get the greatest satisfaction from photographing my local birds and as I gain more knowledge of what is available on my local patch a diminishing interest in visiting nature reserves.
Hide for nest work. Stealth and understanding for most everything else.
Alan, re buzzards
Hides are nearly always essential for them, unless you have a youngster who hasn't been frightened by ppl yet.
Even baiting them requires patience and a hide, their eyesight is phenomonal and the slightest movement by you can be picked up by them. Try the two man in one man out approach to them when you go to a hide, they are like all birds in that they can't count, so when they see two men going to a place and one leaving they assume that the coast is then clear.
Hides are a good way to get natural behaviour shots.
I've never used a hide to appear professional in my life I'm not a professional photographer and have no wish to appear to be one.
With mammals John hit the nail on the head above, its called movement. David, above, stated the reason why - an animals circle of fear.
As an example, like DC, I am shooting badgers at the moment - when the badger is about 12m away I can move, slowly, with reasonable ease and (whilst they will watch) they will not run, so enviro shots are relatively easy. However to get a frame filler of a young badger with a 300mm I need to be within 2.5 meters of it, so, if you move at all, the only photo you are likely to get is of its ass; you are in its circle of fear.
To overcome this circle of fear you have to either remove the fear (movement) or provide incentive to it to overcome its fear, hence you have some options like a) get some ninja training b) play the familarity game over a lot of weeks c) give up, d) feed up e) get a hide or f) a combination of the above
Dependant upon your time constraints, and if you are particulary short on time, a hide and food can work well providing you can accept the limitations it places upon you, that said I am opting for b and d at the moment.
One other overlooked advantage of a hide is that it can limit the dispersal of your scent - IMO with birds this isn't that important with mammals it is key.
The badgers Danny and I are just started working have just had two weeks of feeding, we are now on the two weeks of familarity/presence work and getting them accustomed to a single flash; the serious photography (and technical flash headaches) start in earnest in another two weeks.
thanks every one for all your imput ill take it all on bord ill just keep trying to get better shots and as its been said its great to be out doors any way.
Posted by Nigel Blake on June 11, 2006 at 10:33 AM
"People like to say they use them because it makes it sound professional"
This has to be the most profoundly glib comment I have ever read!
Hides are a permanent presence that wildlife will get accostomed to when you are not able to be there, 24 hours a day 7 days a week, therefore the odd day or two that you might get to use it will be much more productive than just sitting quietly and hoping for the best. Obviously prior observations will help make siting the hide more successful with respect to the resulting images.
I use a hide to make me look invisible.
Mmm. I'm often misquoted, but how such a trivial comment can wind some up! Hides may make you invisible Nigel but not the movement in the lens, the sound of the shutter, nor hide your smell. My comment was profound yes, but glib no (touche;-). It was also very generalist. If you use a hide to photograph next doors moggy then good for you.
A tree or wall or car or long grass or even lying flat is a type of hide, they allow mobility, and none of them require permission to use (not that i ever ask!!) or risk being vandalised. Fieldcraft first, then a hide if you fail!
Certainly not wound-up David. But I do know which methodology gets the best most intimate relaxed images of subjects that are unaware of my presence, it also pays me a very healthy living!
Discussion
16 repliesthanks in advance for any advice you can give
chris
For general garden type birds i would use a hide/shed and have a feeding table with regular food for them to get used to,Strap/clamp a perch over the feeding table for them to land on and have a nice even background-bush or similar
chris
Dave
Forest of Dean, UK
I know where there are 2-3 buzzards that hang out at a place i go to.I'm in the same situation as chris, as i cant get close to them
I see alot of dead rabbits on the road while i'm driving to the location, would you recomend taking one of these to them and setting it up on a tree stump or branch out in the open, then use a hide to sit and wait for one to come along ?.
Anyones help would be greatfull
Oh and i like the idea of using mealworms/maggots for the small birds
Dave
Forest of Dean, UK
There's nothing better than getting shots of non-feeder type birds for me...that's what probably excites me in all this Avian photography stuff!
I reckon you need to find a patch and get to know it and watch the behaviour of the birds you are after. Though saying that, I don't get much shooting time and generally walk around and carry my kit until I stumble upon something. The best time I have had though is just like has been said in these replies, I sat down next to a tree and waited for an hour or so until I'd become accepted and I couldn't believe how much wildlife was surrounding me. Possibly a mixture of both would be good.
Graeme
I always start off with an objective in mind but am always ready to adapt to what is most favourable - for instance today I went up on the moors to check out the curlews but conditions were not ideal - but in the late morning I found 5 young kestrels practicing hunting who were most confiding - usually I cann't get within 50 yards of kestrels.
The key thing I have learned is to study your local patch - learn the times of year and the good places and the lighting direction. I get the greatest satisfaction from photographing my local birds and as I gain more knowledge of what is available on my local patch a diminishing interest in visiting nature reserves.
Hope this is of some help
John
John
Alan, re buzzards
Hides are nearly always essential for them, unless you have a youngster who hasn't been frightened by ppl yet.
Even baiting them requires patience and a hide, their eyesight is phenomonal and the slightest movement by you can be picked up by them. Try the two man in one man out approach to them when you go to a hide, they are like all birds in that they can't count, so when they see two men going to a place and one leaving they assume that the coast is then clear.
Hides are a good way to get natural behaviour shots.
I've never used a hide to appear professional in my life
John
As an example, like DC, I am shooting badgers at the moment - when the badger is about 12m away I can move, slowly, with reasonable ease and (whilst they will watch) they will not run, so enviro shots are relatively easy. However to get a frame filler of a young badger with a 300mm I need to be within 2.5 meters of it, so, if you move at all, the only photo you are likely to get is of its ass; you are in its circle of fear.
To overcome this circle of fear you have to either remove the fear (movement) or provide incentive to it to overcome its fear, hence you have some options like a) get some ninja training b) play the familarity game over a lot of weeks c) give up, d) feed up e) get a hide or f) a combination of the above
Dependant upon your time constraints, and if you are particulary short on time, a hide and food can work well providing you can accept the limitations it places upon you, that said I am opting for b and d at the moment.
One other overlooked advantage of a hide is that it can limit the dispersal of your scent - IMO with birds this isn't that important with mammals it is key.
The badgers Danny and I are just started working have just had two weeks of feeding, we are now on the two weeks of familarity/presence work and getting them accustomed to a single flash; the serious photography (and technical flash headaches) start in earnest in another two weeks.
This has to be the most profoundly glib comment I have ever read!
Hides are a permanent presence that wildlife will get accostomed to when you are not able to be there, 24 hours a day 7 days a week, therefore the odd day or two that you might get to use it will be much more productive than just sitting quietly and hoping for the best. Obviously prior observations will help make siting the hide more successful with respect to the resulting images.
I use a hide to make me look invisible.
A tree or wall or car or long grass or even lying flat is a type of hide, they allow mobility, and none of them require permission to use (not that i ever ask!!) or risk being vandalised. Fieldcraft first, then a hide if you fail!
Dave
Forest of Dean, UK