Need help on having a photo printed professionally...

Hi, all! I am entering a local contest and need to have my prints sent out professionally and mounted (thinking about MPIX). I've never had this done and am at a complete loss as to where to begin. I have the print as I want it, but need to resize and sharpen. I have a Canon 40D and would like to print larger than an 8 x 10/8 x 12. My current dimensions are: W = 3345 pixels H = 2306 pixels (13.938 X 9.608 in) at 22.1M and a resolution of 240 pixels per inch.

MPIX has set sizes, 10 X 13 being one of them. Would I be able to use this size or larger? My photo will need to be flush mounted. Any advice or links to explain my steps? I'm ready to pull out my hair!!!



Thanks!

How large do you want the print to be? Once you determine that, resize it as necessary. Then, create a blank, white canvas in PS that's the next size up from the print size you want. Copy and paste your image as a new layer onto that canvas. Flatten the layers and send that to the lab to have printed. So if you're going to leave it as a 9.xx by 13.xx print and the next size up at MPix is, say 12x18 then create a blank, new document in PS filled with white that's 12x18 at 240 ppi and the same bit depth as your original (sounds like it's 8 bit from file size in MB). You do this under the File>New menu.

What they should do, in that case, is print it exactly as you sent it so you'll get the print size you want and it'll have some white border around it. Would you have MPix or whatever lab did the printing also do the mounting? If so, then you should be able to include additional instructions to have them cut off all the excess white border which will leave you with a mounted, borderless print.

Thank you so much, Robert. What if I want to enlarge my print beyond the dimensions I mentioned to say, a 16 X 20 or larger? Would I still use 240 ppi? Is it best to use Bicubic for resampling? This is where I get confused. I don't want to degrade my image quality...

You should get good image quality at large sizes with any ppi in the 180 - 360 range Amy, depending on the level of detail in the image, and assuming the printer driver handles things from there. MPix may have a particular preference for you to upsize to based on their printers and software. Bicubic does a fine job, but remember that you should do some careful re-sharpening any time you resize an image. There are more expensive or more advanced things out there than Bicubic, but most people would be hard pressed to notice the difference without pixel-peeping.

When you send it to mpix, if you are making a huge file you may want to upload a jpg saved at level 10. If you are making something 20x30 I'd stick with level 12 but for 11x14 or under you probably will see no difference. If you have fully calibrated your monitor you can send them the file and it will be spot on. I do so regularly, but if you have not professionally calibrated your monitor, what they print may not be what you see so you may want to send off a test print at 8x10. Your file, assuming it is "good" and sharp, should be printable to 20x30 if you want. I have printed 8MB files from my 1DMKII at 20x30 and been very pleased. Heck...I had a client ask for a crop of 1/4 of my image printed to 20x30 and he was tickled pink. A pixel peeping photog would have groaned at the lack of resolution but most good photos are about emotional content, not per-pixel sharpness, with the exception of landscapes and similar studies. best of luck.

Thanks, guys! I'm sure it will be easier once I do this...

Amy, I use White House Custom Color in St. Paul, Minn. I transmit them the image as a level 10 jpeg and they have a variety of mounting materials they offer. If I'm matting an 8x10 print in an 11x14 mat, I'll do as already mentioned and create an 11x14 canvas and center the 8x10 print on it, then flatten and send to WHCC as an 11x14 order. And I check color correction ($1 per file extra) in case my monitor is off a bit, and I also have them mount it. That way when I get it I can simply adhere an 8x10/11x14 mat to the image and it all fits together perfectly before going in a clear bag or a frame.

You can go to www.whcc.com for more info. They'll have you send three free test images and will ship the prints back so you know how it all looks before making your first order. I just keep a credit card on file with them so when I make an order (using their ordering software that you download and install), it all comes off the card and I'm good to go. They offer free 2-day shipping anywhere in the lower 48.

Just another option for you. Whichever one you choose, you are right. Once you do it, it all becomes easier.

I also use bicubic when interpolating in Photoshop. It's worked great so far, with 20x30 being the largest I've sold but some larger ones I've had done for myself.

Good luck!

Thanks so much, Steve! Your info is very helpful, and I'll check out WHCC...

If you're not set with MPix, WHCC is always highly regarded, as is West Coast Imaging, or its more consumer grade (MPix like) arm, Aspen Creek Photo. I've used West Coast and they were great. A bit more expensive than some other options, I think, but the range of options, choices, and help they provide is somewhat higher. I believe WHCC is more like West Coast as well.

If you search some threads on here you can probably find some other online printers that are good as well.

El Co Color is another good one, as is MyPhotoPipe.com.

Hey Amy, I'm one of Mpix's many featured photographers. I have used them a lot but I also use many other printers including West Coast Digital. They are both great but if you're just getting started you should always proof your photos and here is one thing where Mpix comes in handy. You can get your small 4x6 proofs in 2 to 3 days for around 10 dollars. After that you'll what will come out good or what still needs editing and you won't waste as much money if you don't proof. West Coast digital is amazing and they have a special right now or maybe still going on their chimera color prints. 30% off. WCD takes 5-7 days to ship. Regardless you should proof whoever you use and don't forget about sharpening the final cut on the large prints. Sharpening is highly important and is often where photographers can go wrong. An easy way before you print can be to duplicate the layer and then smart sharpen to where it feels about right and then w/ a paint brush paint back in the soft smooth areas of the photo. I've had a lot of repeat business from this using this method. Well what ever you do. Good luck!

Thanks for the suggestions, guys! Boy, do I wish I was more knowledgeable in this area.

Steve, thanks for the tips - sharpening is what intimidates me the most. LOL