To Flatten or Not To Flatten, That is the question...

When you all get through processing a pix in PS, do you...
1. Flatten layers or not?
2. Do you use any compression, if so which one? Why?
3. What do you save your processed image as?
4. Do you save your processed image and then crop down as needed to the size needed?

Thanks for everyone help!
Sandi Winton

1. No. Flattening 'locks in' everything you've done so if you want to go back and tweak at a later time, it's more difficult.
2. No. Although with TIFF it wouldn't matter because compression on TIFFs is lossless.
3. TIFF in 16 bit.
4. Yes. Save the master file then 'save down', resize, sharpen as needed for the required purpose.

I noticed after tweaking the levels, contrast, curves, etc... it will not let me use the cloning tool without flattening. is there a way around it or do i just have to do all the cloning that I want first and then change the adjustments?

I store my processed images in layers for my own future work, but I wouldn't consider submitting the layered version to a client. At the very least a flattened file cuts down on the size of files you have to transmit. You also need to recognize that some of your clients won't be working in layers, and when they try to make their own adjustments while your layers are still in place, they can really bugger things up badly. If a client asks for my layers, I'll be interviewing them about which layers they want left in place and why before making the submission.

Sandi, I do it how Robert does, and then can alter the image from there as needed. For example, my print lab wants level 10, 8-bit jpegs transmitted electronically, so I do that conversion after I've got my image picture perfect. My master files of fine art nature photographs generally are layered 16-bit TIFFs with no compression. For commercial clients it depends on their need. I often shoot in JPEG for weddings and sporting/outdoors event photography and don't do much in layers at all. Just varies with the type of photography and the client.

Like Hank, I'm not excited about giving a client an image with layers intact. Too much chance they're not clued in and will muck around in bad ways.

I'm not sure which Photoshop you're using, but in order to use the clone tool when you've already got several layers, you may have to make sure you go in and select the proper layer you wish to clone.

To use the clone stamp or spot healing brush after you have layers you have to turn off all of the layers except the background and perform any cloning/healing on the background layer. Another option is to duplicate the background layer and do this work on the copy. The advantage to this is that if you decide to undo the clone/healing work you simply delete the background copy and start over.

Sandi,

1. I keep a layered "master" file and flatten files that are "targeted" for specific sizes and/or uses, such as for the web or print.

2. The only files I compress are jpegs.

3. I save my scans as 8 bit TIFF files and my master files as layered, full resolution PSD files. I will save in TIFF format when I need to send the file to someone who might not have Photoshop. I don't send layered files unless required.

4. Cropping is not set in stone. I may crop a scan and sometimes will crop a master file. I will also crop targeted files as needed. Cropping is more of a creative decision than one of normal workflow.

With regard to using the clone tool: I always make a copy of the background layer. Select the Background layer then choose Layer>Layer Via Copy from the layers menu. You can use the clone tool on this layer. I don't use any adjustment tools or the clone tool on the background layer.

-P

Thanks everyone! Whew! You all are way over my head. I'm going to have to read and reread your comments before that all sinks in.

Be sure to follow Preston's advice of highlighting the Background layer,
then Layer->New->Layer via Copy. Name that one 'Cloning' or 'Healing' so you'll know what you did there.
Never work directly on the Background layer.

My responses are pretty much the same as Preston's.

You can also create a copy of the background layer by right-clicking on the background layer and selecting "Duplicate Layer ...". This gives you the opportunity to immediately name the duplicate layer if you want.

Also, I don't think that Rob's first statement is correct. There is no need to turn off the adjustment layers. You just need to have the background layer selected, or the top-most duplicate of the background layer.

Sometimes I make several sequential duplicates of the background layer, making specific types of changes to each layer (just as with adjustment layers), so that I can track each type of change made. For example, I'll make a duplicate of the background layer, and do a highlights adjustment (Image -> Adjustments -> Shadow/Highlight...) on that layer. Then I'll make a duplicate of that layer, and do a shadows adjustment. Then I'll make a duplicate of that layer, and do any cloning I might want to do. The only ... issue ... with this approach is that the background layer is the largest component of the finished file with respect to file size. Each duplicate of the background layer increases the file size accordingly.

Jim, just out of curiosity, when you make your multiple Shadow/Highlight layers are you making only a Shadows adjustment on one and a Highlight Adjustment on the other? Or are you doing one adjustment on the first and both on the second?

Robert,

I'll do just a shadows adjustment on one layer and just a highlights adjustment on another. Is there some flaw in this approach, or something I haven't considered? I will indicate in the layer name the exact adjustment that I made, for example "Shadows 10-10-20", which indicates Shadows - Amount: 10%, Tonal Width: 10%, Radius: 20%. I realize that I could make both a shadows and highlights adjustment on the same duplicate layer, and just indicate both adjustments in the layer name as in the example above, and save some file space. But I like being able to see the effect of each adjustment separately.